Many years ago, maybe as the very first brand, we chose British Juice Lubes because we think they have the best cyclo-cosmetics on the market and they're cool. Let's write briefly about how to choose the right lube for your chain.
Chain lube is easily underestimated. It seems like a primitive activity - it is, but that doesn't mean it should be done stupidly. Like sewing machine oil when that bugger chain starts squeaking. The chain is a very precise and stressed component that is spared absolutely nothing. Neither mud, nor dust, nor the rider's scho/ness to shift correctly and at the right time. Shifting and stressing the chain on an e-bike is a chapter in itself. How much easier it is to ride it uphill and shift because the legs are "not under traction", the sadder the story the chain might tell you about the reality.
At the same time, the least you can do for longer life and cool functionality is the one and only thing, and it's mostly simple - clean and lubricate.
Preparation
Before each lubrication, we strongly recommend cleaning the chain, preferably by "washing" it. For example, use the Juice Lubes Chain Cleaner - BOSS. You will use less product, be more environmentally friendly and, above all, even a dust-obsessed wife can't clean the chain with a rag like this. The washing machine bristles get almost everywhere and scrub the chain thoroughly. To keep a clean chain from spinning on messy gears and pulleys, use a gear brush and a cassette brush between the cassette pinions. This will ensure that the chain is clean before lubrication and that the oil and dirt don't form an abrasive paste that will quietly ravage your gears. Then dry the chain, either with a rag or simply wait for it to dry.
Before we get into the nitty-gritty of categorizing the products and the environments they are designed for, keep in mind the basic divisions.
Chain lubricants are CHAIN JUICE. DRY and WET are the basics, CERAMIC, VIKING and WAX are more advanced. Each has different properties. The most basic lesson is: Is this the normal dry season when there is not much mud in the woods? Use DRY. Is it normally a wet, muggy week or completely apocalyptic conditions where even weather apps are crashing? Use WET.
Regarding DRY (a new formula starting in 2020) - although the issue of dry chain lubrication looks simple, appearances can be deceiving. Dust sticks to everything, all the better on a lubricated chain where it successfully forms an abrasive paste during the ride. DRY is, simply put, two-component. One component is the carrier - this transports the lubricant deep into the chain to protect and lubricate inside where it's needed and doesn't cling to the surface. The ethanol-based "carrier" component is then evaporated. The other component that has been transported inside the chain is the lubricant and does its job inside.

On the other hand, when it's so nasty outside that it wouldn't chase a dog away, the rain is pouring , but you suffer the disorder of going out on your bike anyway - put some blue WET on a dry degreased chain. Like all other JL lubricants, it contains additives that resist extreme pressure, so when you're riding really edge, the lubricant will stay between the pins even under those pressures. The specialty of WET is the additives that contain waterproof additives. DO NOT RUN DRY! DRY DUST STICKS.

And now let's describe the properties of the remaining JUICE LUBES.
We often want to keep the chain lubricated imrvére. So universal. Rain or dry, always lubricated and long lubricated. That's the blue and yellow VIKING. It was originally developed with road racer Magnus Backsted for the unpredictable and especially long Paris-Roubaix race. To develop a lubricant that can cope with changeable weather and still shift gears after seven hours of brutal stress. When Viking was tested by Singletrack Magazine, they called it "the holy grail of lubricants". Viking's description is longer than its life on the chain when lubed. It was formulated to last dry and wet, but more importantly, to last much longer on the chain than conventional lubricants.

Lubrication not only prolongs the life of the chain and gears, it also promotes shift quality. Having a lubricated chain that also shifts like it's popping is great. JL's speciality for this is CERAMIC lubricant. It guarantees sharp shifting and a very durable layer of lubricant on the chain. The ceramic additive behaves in such a way that it forms a microscopic layer on the chain, a texture that greatly reduces metal to metal contact, and therefore shifts better every time, even when you shouldn't be shifting at all, but when you do, the derailleur makes a toenail-twisting sound. The very semi-popularly written point is that the chain moves much more smoothly over the pinions. Chain Juice Ceramic will also greatly increase component life and protect against corrosion. It is best suited for use from completely dry to slightly damp weather. A lot of ouzkers can write that CERAMIC is a blessing for roadies, gravelists and such.

Chain Juice WAX (revised formula since 2021) is the secret to a clean, dry yet perfectly lubricated chain. Gentle shifting in all but the nastiest conditions. Best used with short sleeves, sunglasses and under blue skies, it doesn't disappoint when the trail unexpectedly turns to mush. Forget everything you know about wax lubes, Juice Lubes Wax is a whole different story! Applying wax requires a little more patience than lubing with a normal lube, but once it penetrates deep into your chain it will provide the smoothest, quietest and longest lasting lubrication. It doesn't stick, it doesn't contaminate the chain on the contrary - it gets the chain super clean and lasts an awfully long time in the chain.
